Category: 2016 Northern Tier: Before the ride

Articles published before bicycling the Northern Tier.

  • Anacortes to San Juan Island

    Fri 6/3

    Anacortes to Friday Harbor, San Juan Islands

    15 miles

    Today we say goodbye to the rent a car and hello to newly put together bikes. A small vehicular comfort over the last few days allowing us to explore Seattle and Mt. Rainier, and run last minute errands for bike tubes, toothpaste and food supply. To test out our bikes we decided to postpone one more day of officially starting and explore the San Juan Islands by ferry. Matt and I are both having a hard time coming to terms that we will need to say goodbye to the ocean for 3 months and so chose a ferry that would allow us an entire day to do a quick bike ride on Friday Harbor and then spend multiple hours on the ferry enjoying the salt spray one last time.

    On Friday Harbor, we rode to Jackson Beach, a shoreline completely full of driftwood. I couldn’t stop thinking of my dad who has a great affection towards driftwood. I imagined he would spend hours at this small beach sizing up each piece. It was warm enough that I joined the dogs playing in the water and took off my shoes to submerge my feSan Jaun Islandet. Tingles sent up my spine in the icy water, but as most of you know, temperature has never kept me out of enjoying the ocean.

  • Northwest Folklife Festival, Day 02

    We woke late, 7:30am and went down to enjoy the free breakfast of cook-it-yourself eggs, pancakes, toast and coffee. The Green Tortoise Hostel is full of people from all over the world. Last night we enjoyed the free Sunday dinner with a girl from Korea and her friend from L.A. Our roommates or rather bunk-mates since we’re all sleeping in bunk beds, were from Minnesota and Germany.  After breakfast we headed out in the warm sunshine and spent the next 11 hours at an all day free folklife festival with some of Washington’s finest musicians and dancers. We spent the day bouncing between stages of West African dance from Guinea, big band brass, Ukrainian Dance Ensemble, the lonely coast with Anne Ford, Woody Guthrie’s Columbia River Songs, Speakeasy Band, and to finish the night with the incredible reggae band, Clinton Feeron and the Boogie Brown Band. As the sun set and the lights of the Space Needle began to twinkle, we began to walk the two miles back to the Tortoise, exhausted and smiling, knowing there couldn’t have been a better way to experience Seattle.

  • Our Silent Language

    I still see shadows of her.

    I walk out of a room and see her laying there, her head lifted up and a questioning look on her face. The tufts of golden brown and black hair on the side of her face are flattened from where her head was resting.

    Despite unshakeable absence, her eyes still read me.

    We took her to the beach on that last morning.

    We took her to the beach on that first morning, too. Letting her off leash that day, she ran. She ran faster than any dog I’d ever seen, legs extended, gliding over a universe of shells. I sucked in my breath for a minute, thinking she wouldn’t come back.

    On this last morning, we knew she wouldn’t come back. We knew she wouldn’t turn around. We knew we had to say goodbye.

    There are certain impossibilities to communicate. Color. Air. Faith. Impressions on our lives that are so essential to who we are that their loss feels as much an impossibility as the object itself. How do you begin to explain that connection, that bond, that inseparability? What language can be powerful enough to construct that meaning?

    P1060361On that beach, those first mornings of our first years, she loved to run. One-tenth of a mile down the wrack line. Two-tenths. Half a mile. She would go until we knew our voice wouldn’t carry any further over the wind. She would go until all our senses, save sight, were snapped. We couldn’t call her. We couldn’t touch her. We could only see her. In those moments, trust rolled in with the waves. It became our communication, our silent language. In as much as she knew when she made that slow, smooth arc back towards our direction that we would be there, we knew that she would come back.

    There is no silence since she left us.

    The last morning, after a restless night, we let her out. Twenty minutes later, we were searching the farm, calling her name.

    She was always the first back to the door, ready for breakfast. Ready to jump up on the bed and kiss us good morning.

    We walked the woods around the property. The cardinals were deafening, their song piercing this new, unwelcome vacancy. The calf-high grasses were cold, wet with dew. The crackling of the detritus below my feet and the swishing of the grasses against my legs were a bubble of noise I couldn’t escape. Inside it, I couldn’t breathe. I shivered, and my eyes teared. I needed her to turn around. I needed her to make that sweeping arc back to us. Back to home. Our twined rope of unvoiced connection was slipping.

    She left us like she ran: fast, with unbridled trust. We learned of the tumor in her heart less than two weeks before her death, when blood had enveloped the sac around her heart to the extent her heart could barely beat. The blood was drained and our sweet girl returned to us, alive in recovery.

    We had six full days to watch her make that sweeping arc back to us. Six full days to know that there was a new partner in our relationship. A new member to get to know. Hemangiosarcoma.

    Is hope impartial? Does hope feel more rewarding after accomplishment or more bitter after defeat?

    Hope is like the shorebreak at the edge of the ocean. A transitory period between two worlds, sucking and pushing, crushing down and smoothing out. Hope steals away doubt and returns chaos. As impermanent as that space between the salt and the sand, hope can never be trusted to remain. To be true.

    On her last day, she would stand, distant, unable to rest. On her last day, she still would look to us, she still would speak our silent language.

    On that last day, we still searched for signs of her running back to us, legs outstretched over a universe of shells, her soft hair dripping with tidal wash, dripping with spray from the shorebreak, dripping with hope.

    CallieIn three days Jodi and I fly to Seattle, Washington to begin a bicycle trip we’ve been planning for more than a year and dreaming of for nearly a decade. We’ve done long-distance trips in the past and have covered thousands of miles under our own power, with some combination of belief, trust and hope.

    Those trips have provided their own rewards, journeys of stubbornness, of accomplishment, of discovery. Of all I have gained from months in a tent and under the sky, self-confidence is perhaps the most identifiable. The ability to trust in yourself. The ability to see something through.

    Three weeks ago, there was little more to this trip than that. Little more than spanning a continent from ocean to ocean, shedding the stresses of adult life, connecting with the kindness in strangers and accomplishing intent.

    The death of our companion has changed all of that, has changed our lives, our relationship, in ways we are only beginning to be introduced to. The loss of our sweet girl has changed this journey, adding unexpected heaviness to our load.

    How long will we carry this heaviness? When will her absence not sear my soul? On what lonely road, on what numberless mile, will these wounds begin to heal? On what day would I even want that?

    I cling to the tendrils of our unspoken language with ferocity and desperation.

    I re-braid that rope between us with a stubborn insistence.

    I lean into my partner.

    We listen for the sound of trust rolling in with the waves. Rolling across the Pacific Ocean. Rolling towards the Great Plains. Rolling towards the Atlantic.

     

  • Geared Up

    We’ve been prepping for this trip for more than one year, using our previous experience backpacking and long-distance kayaking to determine what we would need to carry for a self-supported, cross-country bicycle trip. Here’s an itemized list of everything we’ll be carrying:

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    Jodi

    Bike:
    2016 Novara Randonee 

    Daily Wear:
    Giro Sonnet Bike Helmet
    Nathan Cycling Ankleband
    Shimano WM34 Bike Shoes
    Sunglasses

    In the bags:
    Novara Vigor full-finger bike gloves
    Pearl Izumi Elite In-R-Cool Bike Shorts
    Novara Summerhill Bike Capri Pants
    REI Everyday Merino Crew Socks
    Pearl Izumi Low Bike Socks
    SmartWool PhD Ultra Light Micro Bike Socks
    SmartWool PhD Light Mini Bike Socks
    Buff Original Buff
    Buff Polar Reversible Buff
    Marmot PreCip Rain Jacket
    Patagonia Capilene 3 Midweight Long Underwear Bottoms
    Patagonia Capilene Midweight Crew Neck Long Underwear Top
    REI Co-Op Down Jacket
    Nemo Rhapsody 30 sleeping bag
    Therm-a-Rest Z-Lite Sol Sleeping Pad
    Travel-sized Toothbrush
    Travel-sized Toothpaste
    Bandana

    On the bike:
    Planet Bike water cages (3)
    Novara Nucleus Deluxe Pannier (2)
    Front rack
    Park Tools Hex Wrench
    Aftermarket bike stem
    Novara Nucleus Handlebar Bag
    Cygolite Streak 350 / Hotshot SL 30 Bike Light Set
    Shimano A530 SPD Sport Road Pedals

    [/span6]

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    Matt

    Bike:
    2016 Novara Randonee
    BOB Yak Plus Bike Trailer

    Daily Wear:
    Shimano Click’R CT71 Bike Shoes
    Nathan Cycling Ankleband
    Trek Bontrager Solstice Bike Helmet
    Sunglasses

    On the trailer:
    Novara Strada Road Bib Bike Shorts
    Canari Arrow Bike Shorts
    Novara Sprint Bike Jersey
    SmartWool PhD Ultra Light Micro Bike Socks
    Novara Sun Sleeves
    Marmot PreCip Rain Jacket
    REI Co-Op Down Jacket
    Patagonia Capilene Midweight Long Underwear Crew Top
    Patagonia Capilene Midweight Long Underwear Bottoms
    Buff Original Buff
    Buff Polar Reversible Buff
    Novara Classic Bike Cap
    REI Flash Insulated Air Sleeping Pad
    Sierra Designs Mobile Mummy 800 2-Season Sleeping Bag
    REI Quarter Dome 2 Tent
    Planet Bike water cages (2)
    Travel-sized Toothbrush
    Bandana
    Hand Sanitizer

    On the bike:
    Planet Bike water cages (2)
    Aftermarket bike stem
    Novara Patch Kit
    Park Tool Emergency Tire Boot
    Park Tool Spoke Wrench
    Lezyne RAP 14 Multi-Tool
    Topeak Road Morph Pump with Gauge
    Novara Nucleus Handlebar Bag
    Topeak MTX Trunkbag DPX with Expandable Side Panniers
    Cygolite Streak 350 / Hotshot SL 30 Bike Light Set
    Shimano A530 SPD Sport Road Pedals
    Bungee Cords (2)
    Bike Lock

    [/span6]

    [/columns]

  • Preparation Continues

    FullSizeRenderThere’s nothing more satisfying than spending hours upon weeks, upon months preparing for a 4 month bike tour. Matt, with his keen eye for good reads, continues to order great cycling books to help us prep for our trip. Just when I’ve finished one, another arrives in the mail. Here’s a list of what we’ve read so far…..

    Cycling Home From Siberia, Rob Lilwall

    Bicycle Diaries, David Kroodsma

    Take a Seat, Dominic Gill (Thank You Jake!)

    The Essential Touring Cyclist, Richard A. Lovett