Category: 2016 Northern Tier: The ride

  • Day 35 Glendive, MT to Belfield, ND 82.5 miles

    We left the motel after a wonderful zero day. We had a light westerly wind of 5 to 8 and a hot clear sky. The temperature rose to 101’ as we rode up the clay hills through Little Missouri National Grass Land and Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Right outside the town of Beach, just after entering North Dakota Matt got his third flat tire. We had each been carrying two spare tubes, but given the last week, now we were down to one. We have not passed any bike shops to buy new tubes, but hopefully our last tube will last us until we can get new ones. Around midday, we were passed by Dan and Lees (SFS) heading east towards Medora, as well as several other couples biking west. We crossed over the Missouri River and saw kayakers paddling underneath the bridge we were riding over. The river was thin and milky as it snaked its way north. We passed the Medora campsite where SFS crew was staying and continued on since it was only 2:30pm. We picked up some elk burgers for lunch and headed on toward Dickinson, about 40 miles east. I had been looking at Adventure Cycling Association’s Map #3 for the last 544 miles and I was ready to move onto Map #4 at Dickenson. However, by mile 75, I was crawling up the endless ups and downs of the hills along Highway 94 and on Old Highway 10. Known from the hiking community, these hills are described as PUDs, pointless ups and downs. I could barely make my legs move, and the wind had clocked around to the east. I called it quits around 6:00pm as we climbed up into the town of Belfied, ND. We pulled in to Trapper Kettles RV park and as I approached the check in desk, I noticed the walls were mounted with stuffed animal heads. I told the lady I would need a single tent site for the night and she said they weren’t allowing tents due to the severe summer storms. I told her I was following the ACA route and it showed camping at this place, and that all we would need is a patch of grass. She then asked her boss and she said that they were accepting tents for the next few weeks. I was so tired and so glad to hear we could stay. I set up the tent, took a shower in the bath house, checked the weather and crawled into bed. Matt went to the gas station to buy a dinner consisting of a sandwich, reeces pieces and V8. I was still full from the burger at lunch and skipped dinner and fell sound asleep.

    At around 11:30pm I heard the first raindrops hit the tent. I quickly woke up, and as I unzipped the door to close the rainfly flap, I saw the sky light up to the west. All of a sudden the wind picked up full force, the rain came in horizontal and the lightning and thunder filled the air.  Matt quickly looked up the weather and there was a severe thunderstorm warning for Belfield for the next two hours with 80 mile an hour wind moving through at 30 miles an hour, golf ball sized hail and possible tornados. My nerves were on alert as the tent snapped and whipped back and forth with the wind. I started thinking of shelters that we could run into if we needed. The bath house was about 30 yards away and there was a free standing cabin only a few meters away from us with a covered porch facing the east. As the rain came down and the wind blew through the trees, the electricity in the air caused me to start shaking uncontrollably. I suggested we make a run for the bath house, but Matt said we should head to the porch first. We put our clothes and shoes on and made a run for the porch. It was pitch black, but the lightening allowed us to glimpse the intensity of the storm. We huddled on the porch getting sprayed from all sides, but it was enough of a wind break. I was really scared, but Matt reminded me that we are Floridians and we know severe storms. It has been a while since I was actually out in a storm this severe and intense. It was kind of ironic because just a few hours earlier in the day, while biking, I was listening to Snap Judgement, a podcast that told a story about a class 5 tornado that whipped through a town with little to no warning. A group of people ran into a walk-in beer cooler in a convenience store and survived, but the rest of the store was ripped to pieces, as well as all of the trees and houses in town. As I held Matt close, seeing the trees bend in front of us and the thunder rattle all of the aluminum campers in the park, I quickly was reminded of how powerful mother nature is. We sat under the porch for about 30 minutes and waited until the storm front passed. When it appeared to be safe and the worse part of the front had passed, we quickly ran back into the tent, took off our soaked clothes and curled up in our sleeping bags. The wind continued to blow hard outside as the rain continued to fall. Exhausted from the miles and heat from earlier that day, and the aching adrenaline that now slowed through my veins I quickly was overcome by sleep.

  • Day 34 Glendive, ND 0 miles

    We took a zero day due to strong easterly winds and aching butts. We showered, checked over our bikes and cleaned out our gear.  We caught up on rest and binge watched the entire season of Bloodline on Netflix while eating tortilla chips, salsa, spinach dip and drinking cokes. We both took long naps and attended to our raw behinds with Chamois Butt’r.

  • Day 33 Circle to Glendive, MT 73 miles

    We got up at 5:30 and was on the road by 5:45 am. We left the tent and all of our belongings and headed out of the R.V. park. We decided last night that we would get up early and bike back the 12 miles to where we left off the trail the day before. Sadly, this would add 12 additional miles that we wouldn’t need, but it was the only way to not skip any miles. By the time we made it back to the tent by 8:30am, the wind had already started to blow hard out of the NW, perfect for our SE ride today. We packed everything up, drank some coffee, said our goodbyes to SFS who decided to take a zero mile day, and hit the road. The road was relatively flat for the first 10 miles and with the wind at our bike, we were carried most of the way. Before the town of Lindsay on highway 200, we had a nice long climb up and through rocky terrain, and to my astonishment we then had almost a 25 mile gradual downhill into Glendive. Perfect conditions for the day. We headed toward their library for some weather news, podcast uploads and email and will call it a day dreaming of westerly winds and entering our 4th state, North Dakota. We then headed towards the post office where Matt picked up a post card from our friend Chris Darby. Thank you so much for sending us the card!

  • Day 32 Wolf Point to Circle, MT 44 miles

    Today’s ride was full of farmland hills. Every slow, drawn out, hard climb up hill would be followed by a short brief downhill, not fully satisfying the speed and mileage equivalent to the climb. We rode leap frog style with Lees, Dan and Mark, Spokes for Strokes crew (SFS) for most of the morning. The sky began to darken toward the eastern horizon as we were heading south on 13. We have heard stories of these micro burst storms, very similar in their intensity, quickness and damage to Florida’s summer storms, only these would bring pelting hail and gusting winds. A woman told us about her barn windows being completely blown out a few days ago and railroad cars turned over on the tracks. We had just passed multiple phone lines that were down and so seeing the black sky streaked with lightening bolts ahead made me very nervous. I started looking for places to seek shelter if the storm blew in on us. We crossed over a small bridge and I thought, we could hide out under there. We passed an old farm house with a barn that I thought would keep us dry. As the lightening got closer and we felt the first drops of rain, I quickly threw my rain coat on and put on my pannier covers. The darker the sky got, the less the wind blew. As we crested over a hill, a girl was changing her bike tire. Matt stopped to help her, while I started the short descent and climb up the next one. Just as I got to the top of the next climb, Dan was there to the rescue with his camper and crew.  We debated about the storm, as the rain continued to fall. Dan suggested we throw our gear in the back of the truck and come with them to the campsite 12 miles ahead.  When Matt pulled up, I told him the option and we both knew our day would either need to end there, or we’d need to find a safe place next to the road to wait it out. Being from Florida and being terrified of bolted lightening, we both quickly threw our bikes in the back and jumped in the truck.

    We made it to a small RV campground in Circle and waited out the storm under the awning of the local laundry mat. The guy that ran the place said we could tent for free, if we were crazy enough to put up a tent in the rain. We definitely are that ‘crazy’ if it means free camping :). The guy also showed us the single restroom and the tv in the laundry mat that we were able to watch. He insisted that if Hillary Clinton came on, he would start screaming at the screen and that it might get violent. He was very passionate about his hatred towards Clinton. When the storm passed, we road to a local spot to eat pizza with everyone from SFS and then crawled into bed by 7pm.

  • Day 31 Glasgow to Wolf Point, MT 49 miles Thank you Trail Angels

    We had a great 4th of July at Cotton Wood RV Park. We met up again with Dan and his crew from Spokes for Strokes and they invited us over for dinner and we greatly accepted. We were in the tent by 8pm and did not get to see or set off any fireworks, although we continued to hear them into the night. The next morning we had a wonderful visit with Janice and Bill, who are making their way to Alaska. They drove 1000 miles ahead of their planned schedule to see us. It was such a treat to spend the morning with Florida friends. Before we left, they loaded us up with homemade cookies, granola and fruit. If that wasn’t a great start to our morning, Scott from Spokes for Strokes offered to slack pack us, since we would all be staying at the same campsite that evening. We quickly gave him all our gear, said goodbye to Janice and Richard and jumped on our bikes. We flew to our campsite, with a steady 15 mph westerly wind pushing us the entire way. Today was a Great Day for Trail Magic. It will help give us a boost through the rest of Montana and into North Dakota.